The Garden Post May/June 2002

By Mary E. Buckno

Water gardening has become the rage these days. Nothing is more soothing than a body of water, no matter how small - it pleases the eye and the senses. The reflections of the sky, the peaceful feelings it imparts, the sight of the fish swimming in harmony with the surrounding plants, give us a sensation that all is well in our world. What could be more beautiful in contrast to our busy lives?

There are many different ways to water a garden. The biggest concern is the size of the container or pond, and how much room is available to devote to it. If space is not the issue, then build a pond to your liking. The size of the container will dictate what you can grow in it, what else you can add, and the type of plants that appeal to you. Water gardening in containers is an ideal solution for most people in the city.

I started water gardening in pots set in the edge of the garden path. I have several green ceramic pots about 18 inches deep. A friend and I invested in a couple of miniature water lilies, some floating plants, and a few goldfish. I was pleasantly surprised with some lovely blooms. I was hooked! The next year we played with other water loving plants. (I've managed to keep most of my tropical plants over the winter months in my greenhouses, with the cannas in the basement along with the Taro or elephant ear). Some of the hardy water lilies have performed well year after year, giving us new plants to share with other gardeners along the way.

Getting started is not hard. First choose a large container (20 gallons or larger). You can start with a plastic half whiskey barrel or other pot that does not have holes drilled in it. Some of the new containers are made especially for water gardening. They have shelves in the sides for marginal plants. Marginal plants are planted in one or two-gallon pots, and placed high in the larger container so they look like they are growing along the edge of the water. If you have a container that does not have shelves, you can take a cement block and stand it on end, or turn over an empty pot under the water, and set the marginal plant on top of it. I like the cement block because it also gives the fish somewhere to hide. Use your imagination!

Once you have the large container, place it where you want it before you fill it with water. Once it is filled, there is no way you will be able to move it around. Fill it with clear water and let it stand for at least a day, after which you can add the plants and fish. In the first year, I would keep it simple. Start with a hardy lily, maybe a marginal plant, also hardy, and a few feeder fish or goldfish to control mosquito larva.

Over the years, I have progressed from three pots to two ponds, five bathtubs, and several small pots. I have separated my water lilies and marginals every spring, getting enough to fill both my containers and ponds, and to share with gardening friends. As for the wildlife, a frog has found the tubs. The fish have multiplied also. Birds and other critters come to drink. Watch out for the cats and raccoons, which will eat the fish and destroy the pond in the process! Keep the edges of the pond uneven to discourage the cats from stalking. A cement block or a large diameter pipe laid on its side works well as a hiding place for the fish to escape from predators.

If you have access to electricity, a fountain or waterfall is nice, but not necessary. My water gardens have no water movement at all. They are cleaned out once a year in the spring. A vacuum that is attached to a garden hose, and cleans with water pressure can be purchased at a garden supply store. It cleans the pond much the same as a pool vac. Floating plants keep down the algae, the fish take care of the mosquito larva, and snails keep the rest in balance. If you are inclined to love the fish as I do, be careful: fish eggs hatch early in the spring. I found baby fish while I was cleaning my pond. I saw little tiny things swimming around that turned out to be fish fry. At first they were black in color and hard to see. When they got older, they changed to the adult color. After I found the babies last spring, I separated them into the small tubs for the summer, and in the fall, placed them all into the big ponds for the winter. They have gotten really pretty now and I'm looking forward to this season and a new school of baby fish.

There are not many insects that bother water plants. Aphids, however, can be a problem. Wash them off into the water and the fish will eat them. If you are not into fish, an alternative is BT donuts. (BT - Bacillusthuringiensis - comes in the shape of a donut and controls mosquitoes by bacterial action that is safe to fish, cats, dogs, and other domestic pets.)

Gardening with water gives a new dimension to the garden. You can create a reflecting pool, a lily pond, or a quiet respite. Treat yourself to a pond. It will be the highlight of your garden.

NOTE: Please see Jeff's article on water garden restrictions due to the drought. There will be a Water Gardening Workshop at Aspens Farms, 49th and Aspen Sts., in West Philadelphia, on May 11th, 2002 at 10:00 a.m. Please call the Garden Phone 215-471-2224 to register. This is a hands-on workshop. We will clean the pond and separate plants, to share. Also, you may call to set up a workshop in your community.

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In The Garden
TOMATOES		By Jessica Manlin

Why do gardeners prize their tomatoes so much? Maybe it's because there is no comparison between a juicy, sun-ripened fruit full of rich flavor and the pale, grainy, plastic-looking object often found at the grocery store. Tomatoes, in their array of sizes, shapes, colors, and tastes, can be the bright spot of your garden.

It's not too late to start tomatoes indoors! Though tomatoes are a long-season crop, you can try sprouting seeds by a sunny window and transplant them outdoors when they are 5-8 weeks old. Or buy healthy tomato plants at a garden center. In either case, get them ready for the great outdoors by keeping them in a sheltered outdoor spot for a few hours a day, one week before you move them into your garden. Transplant tomatoes outdoors from mid-May until the end of June. Make sure to bury the stems deeply (past the first set of leaves) so the plants grow new roots. Choose a very sunny spot in your garden where you did not plant tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, or eggplants the year before (these crops all belong to the nightshade family). Tomatoes grow well near herbs such as basil. Check seed packets for spacing recommendations. You'll save the most space by staking your tomatoes; caging will also save some space. Tomatoes that sprawl on the ground produce more, but smaller fruit.

These delicious fruits need lots of nutrients, so plant them in rich soil, and fertilize them with a 5-10-10 fertilizer when the plants begin to set fruit. Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion and compost tea work well. Mulch tomatoes after the soil has warmed up; this maintains consistent moisture, keeps down weeds, and keep fruits clean and decay-free on sprawling plants. Pinching the suckers that form between the stem and branches encourages larger fruit.

To control hornworms, bacillus thuringiensis (BT) is a good biological pesticide. Keep cigarette smoke away from plants, as this can cause tobacco mosaic virus. To inhibit the spreading of disease, avoid watering the leaves. Rotating your tomatoes and nightshade crops with other crops each year helps to control pests.

Arguably, the best-tasting tomatoes are the "Brandywine', an heirloom variety with pink, thin flesh, (it is prone to cracking, though), and fantastic flavor. For cherry tomatoes, try "Sun Gold', a very sweet gold cherry, and 'Super Sweet 100", a delicious red variety.

Marinated Tomato Salad

Combine everything and serve at room temperature.

Serves 4-6

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Culinary Herb Corner

By Joe Janulewicz

Parsley (Petroselinum Crispum)

Parsley is a hardy biennial that is usually treated as an annual. It is popular because of its much divided, sometimes curly leaves, which have a characteristic flavor and smell.

There are three basic types of parsley: 1) Flat-leaf or Italian 2) Curly-leaf 3) Parsnip-rooted (Hamburg). The flat-leaf parsley type has a richer, more substantial flavor. The roots of Hamburg parsley have a celery-like taste, useful in soups and stews.

Parsley can be grown from seed but it is slow to germinate. The plant hardiness zone ranges from seven to nine. Parsley prefers a soil of pH 6.0 and moderately rich, moist, but well-drained soil. The exposure needed is full sun to partial shade.

Parsley can bolt or flower in early summer heat. The flowers are tiny, greenish yellow with five petals arranged in flat umbels. If the flowers are pollinated, parsley will set small seeds that are oval, gray-brown, and ribbed.

Parsley has had the misfortune of being used as a garnish, a token herb on plates of steak and fish. But that resilient sprig is edible, and its high chlorophyll content makes it a natural breath sweetener. Remember that parsley is a powerhouse of nutrition since it contains high concentrations of vitamin A, B complex, C, and E, and the minerals iron and calcium.

In ancient Greece, parsley was thought of as a garnish. It was also placed in wreaths given to winning athletes because the Greeks believed that the god Hercules had chosen parsley for his garlands. And for Greek athletic horses, the greens were thought to give stamina to win races.

Six parsley plants, set eight inches apart, will supply the average family and allow enough for freezing or drying. If you let a few parsley plants go to seed late in the season, they may produce seedlings for next years crop. You can lift the plants in late September, cut them back, and grow parsley on a window ledge through the winter.

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What's in the Pot?        By Jeffrey Myers

Water Use During the Drought Emergency

All gardeners should be aware of the restrictions placed on us during this drought. The following is a summary of information taken from the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection's "Managing Water Use During a Drought Emergency" factsheet.

GARDENS

• Fresh water may be used to water outdoor gardens if the garden is used to produce food and fiber or used to maintain livestock and poultry.
• Other outdoor gardens may be watered only between 5 p.m. and 9 a.m. by means of a bucket, can, or hand-held hose equipped with an automatic shotoff nozzle; or by an irrigation system that is designed and operated to restrict the timing or total volume of water, to restrict the application to specified plantings, and that ensures effective water conservation.

LANDSCAPED AREAS, TREES, SHRUBS AND OTHER OUTDOOR PLANTS

• Trees, shrubs and other outdoor plants may be watered only between 5 p.m. and 9 a.m. by means of a bucket, can, or hand-held hose equipped with an automatic shutoff nozzle; or by an irrigation drip hose.

ORNAMENTAL FOUNTAINS, ARTIFICIAL WATERFALLS, REFLECTING POOLS, FISH PONDS AND WATER GARDENS

• Use of any water for ornamental purposes is prohibited.
• Water may be used to top off ornamental water gardens or fish ponds to the minimum extent necessary to maintain fish and aquatic life.
• Artificial fountains or waterfalls may be operated to perform the primary and necessary aeration function for a pond that supports fish life.

GRASS

• Grass, including lawns, may not be watered.
• Grass may be watered if the area has been newly seeded or sodded within the previous 12 months, but watering must be done between 5 p.m. and 9 a.m. by means of a bucket, can, or hand-held hose equipped with an automatic shutoff nozzle. Newly seeded or sodded grass also may be watered between 7 p.m. and 11 p.m. by any means designed and operated to ensure effective water conservation.
• Water also may be used to soak grub control products into the ground, but only one time during the period of declared drought emergency.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT:

Commonwealth of Pennsylvania
Department of Environmental Protection
Southeast Regional Office
Lee Park Suit 6010
555 North Lane
Conshohocken, PA 19428
610-832-6000
www.dep.state.pa.us (directLINK "drought")

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The Good, The Bad, and The Unusual

By Christine Tilles

Drought Gardening Solutions

The gardening season will be complicated this year if we don't get more rain in spring. The lack of rain and snow during the fall and winter months put us in a drought emergency. Therefore, we must maximize every ounce of water we use. Also, keep this in mind - pests attack plants that are stressed. Here are a few suggestions:

WATERING - When watering gardens, container plants, lawns and newly planted trees, water deeply. The optimum time to water is in the early morning (6-8 a.m.) or late afternoon to early evening (5-6 p.m.). Sprinkler systems are discouraged because they are not efficient. The foliage (leaves and stems) receives water that would benefit the plant more if it were absorbed by the plant roots. If you don't have an alternative to a sprinkler system, water early in the morning. This will give the foliage a chance to dry off. Plants that have wet foliage during the nighttime hours encourage pests and disease. Drip irrigation systems, soaker hoses, a well-placed open hose, or recycled soda and spring water bottles, are excellent watering methods. If you are using recycled bottles, put pencil sized holes in the bottom and place them among your crops or near the base of newly planted trees and shrubs. Water deeply. This will encourage plant roots to travel deeper into the soil in search of water. This also gives them more protection during hot, dry weather.

MULCH - Mulching prevents erosion, keeps plant roots warm in winter, cool in summer, and reduces evaporation. Materials that make excellent mulch are salt hay (not straw), dry crushed leaves, dry grass clippings, peanut shells, dry wood chips (not fresh and not for food crops), hops, buckwheat hulls, and cocoa hulls.

RAISED BEDS OR MODIFIED RAISED BEDS - Raised beds are created by mounding the soil six-eight inches above the existing ground level. The perimeter can be made of untreated wood lined in plastic, plastic lumber, cinder block, brick, etc. The width can be 36-48" and the length is up to you. If your garden site does not have deep, loose fertile soil, a raised bed is the answer. Your garden site may have deep soil; however, you may recognize the merits of a loose soil that is not compacted by foot traffic. A modified raised bed will be fine. Six inches above the soil level or less may be sufficient. But, for both of the beds, there is clearly one advantage when watering: no water is wasted. Every drop goes into the planted area. If you use the row method, try a raised bed or two and compare.

ENJOY YOUR GARDEN!

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What's Coming Up By Joe Janulewicz

May 4, 2002 10:30 a.m. Compost Training with Mary Buckno. Norris Square Neighborhood Project. 2141 N. Howard St.

May 5, 2002 11:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Chestnut Hill Garden Festival 8000-8700 block of Germantown Ave. in Philadelphia's Historic Northwest. For more information www.chestnuthillpa.com

May 11, 2002 10:00 a.m. Water Garden Workshop with Mary Buckno. Aspen Farms 49th and Aspen Streets.

May 15, 2002 4:00 p.m. May Flowers - Seed Starting Workshop with Mary Buckno. Nicetown-Tioga Branch Library. Broad Street and Erie Ave.

May 16, 2002 "Everything You Wanted to Know About Tomatoes" with Joe Janulewicz, Penn State Garden Advisor 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. at the Horticulture Center, Montgomery Drive off Belmont Ave.

May 18, 2002 10:00 a.m. Summer Gardening Techniques with Jeff Myers. Penn State Cooperative Extension. 4601 Market Street. 2nd Floor.

May 25, 2002 10:30 a.m. Container Gardening Workshop with Christine Tilles. Marian Anderson Recreation Center. 1700 Fitzwater St.

May 31, 2002 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Philadelphia County Fair at Memorial Hall for Philadelphia Public School Children. Join Penn State Cooperative Extension for the opening of the County Fair! The Urban Gardening Program will feature "Grow Your Own Green" - a hands -on workshop where students will plant their own flowers and vegetables to take home! For more information, call the Garden Phone (215) 471-2224.

June 8, 2002 10:30 a.m. Summer Gardening Techniques with Jeff Myers. Penn State Cooperative Extension, 4601 Market Street, 2nd Floor.

June 9, 2002 1:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Container Gardening with Mary Buckno. Fox Chase Farms, 8600 Verree Road.

June 13, 2002 10:30 a.m. Compost Training Workshop with Christine Tilles. Horticulture Center, Montgomery Drive off Belmont Ave.

June 20, 2002 "Everything You Wanted to Know About Beans" with Joe Janulewicz Penn State Garden Advisor from 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. at the Horticulture Center, Montgomery Drive off Belmont Ave.

June 22, 2002 10:30 a.m. Harvest Show Preparation with Christine Tilles and Audrey Lisowski. Southwark Community Garden, 3rd and Catherine Streets.

June 27, 2002 10:30 a.m. Compost Training Workshop with Christine Tilles. Horticulture Center, Montgomery Drive off Belmont Ave.

PLEASE CALL THE GARDEN PHONE TO REGISTER FOR ALL WORKSHOPS (215) 471-2224

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This publication is available in alternative media. The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. The Pennsylvania State University does not discriminate against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability, or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Direct all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 201 Willard Building, University Park, PA 16802 Tel. (814) 865-4700/V, (814) 863-1150 TTY. Handicap accessible.

Posted May 25, 2002